It's true that the most effective energy-saving strategies - adding better insulation, upgrading your heating equipment, getting a professional energy audit - involve some hefty up-front costs. But take heart: There's plenty you can do right now to trim your energy bills without spending a cent. Here are some ideas from weatherization expert Bruce Harley to get you started:
Understand Your Energy Costs
In 2007, the average household spent between $2,100 and $2,500 on energy, and costs are rising. As you look for ways to control your own energy costs, it's helpful to compare yours to everyone else's. Because averages reflect houses of all sizes, you'll want to estimate how your home stacks up on a cost-per-square-foot basis. Here's how to do it:
First, gather your electricity and gas or oil bills from the previous year. If you didn't save them, many monthly bills have a summary of the previous year's use. If yours doesn't, request that information from your utility company.
Total all the bills (electricity and gas or oil) for the past year, and divide that by the square footage of your house. Compare the total annual energy cost per square foot to the values in the chart below. If you use a lot more energy than average, your potential for energy savings is high.
Give Your Computer a Rest
Using "standby" or "hibernate" mode, you can lull your computer to sleep and save energy. In Microsoft Windows, go to "Control Panel: Power Options." Choose the power scheme "max energy savings" (or "max battery" for laptops). You can also set custom time delays for inactivity until the system shuts off the monitor or hard drive, or goes into standby.
On a Mac, choose "System Preferences: Energy Saver"; it's called "sleep" instead of "standby." You can independently set times for the monitor or the computer to go to sleep. On either sys-tem, when the monitor is off, the computer keeps working in the background. In standby or sleep, activity stops, but it takes just a few seconds to turn back on right where you left off. Any machine can easily be configured to wake up automatically for scheduled events, or when a fax or modem rings.
Keep the Fridge Clean
Spend a few minutes every other month cleaning your refrigerator's coils, and periodically check the door seals to make sure they are tight. Also, try to ensure that the fridge can get rid of heat effectively; a refrigerator should not be enclosed in a cabinet or box, or placed too close to a heat source (like an oven).
One last thing: Don't worry too much about standing with the door open. Unless the fridge is nearly empty, it doesn't make as much difference as most people think.
Keep Window AC Units Running Well
Room air conditioners are seventh on the list of electricity-consuming appliances in homes, so it's important to keep them tuned up. First of all, free airflow is essential: Always install air conditioners so that the indoor and outdoor surfaces are unobstructed. The first time I ever installed a room air conditioner, it was in an attic apartment with deep interior window wells. Balancing most of the unit's weight outdoors made me nervous, so I figured I'd take advantage of the shelf and install most of the unit inside, with only the back exposed outdoors. Unfortunately, that left more than half of the exterior air vents indoors - and I wondered why the room didn't cool off.
Also, be sure to use stick-on foam weather-stripping to seal gaps around the window sash and to keep the cool air in and the warm air out. Other important maintenance tasks include changing or cleaning the interior air filter regularly and keeping the exterior clean and free of debris.
Finally, don't let your air conditioner turn into a heat-loss machine when you aren't using it: Remove it in the winter. At the very least, use a sealed insulating cover.
Lower the Temperature
Both gas and electric water heaters are adjustable. You will save money if you set the heater at the lowest setting you can get by with; just don't go below 120?F.
Note, though, that not all gas water heaters have a thermostat that turns "up" in the same direction, so look at the markings on the knob. If you have an electric water heater, start by turning off the circuit breaker. Electric water heaters have two thermostats; access them by removing the two metal covers (sometimes both are under one long cover) with a screwdriver. Using the screwdriver, set both thermostats at the same temperature. After adjusting, check the temperature several times over a couple of days to see where it settles.
Take Care of Your Water Heater
Sediment on the bottom of a gas water heater's tank reduces heat transfer from the burner to the water, wasting energy and money. Flush the tank once a year to clean it out. To do this, switch the gas control to "pilot" (and know how to relight it if necessary). Then open the drain valve at the bottom, and let it run full force into a pail. Use extreme caution; even if you turned down the control beforehand, the water will be hot. Leave the cold-water inlet open so that the pressure of the incoming water helps to force out the sediment. You don't want to empty the tank, but you may need to fill the pail a few times, depending on water quality and the age of the tank.
If the tank is older and you've never done this, be careful. If there's a lot of crud in the drain valve, you may have trouble closing it. Find the shutoff valve for the cold-water inlet first, just in case. If the drain valve sticks, you may need a plumber to replace it.
Seal Off the Chimney
If you have a fireplace, keep the damper closed when it's not in use. If it's rarely used, install an insert that seals much more tightly than a standard damper.
A stove is much more efficient for burning wood. Pellet stoves have the best user controls, plus high efficiency and low emissions, although you have to purchase bagged "stove chow." In either case, the best choice is a wood or pellet stove with a duct supplying outdoor air for combustion right to the firebox.
Turn Off the Fan
If you currently leave the furnace fan running all day, change the setting on the thermostat to "auto." This alone could save you between $100 and $500 a year on your electric bill. The fan is not intended to run full time, and you shouldn't need to run it 24/7 to be comfortable. A feeling that you need some air moving in the house could indicate one of two things: a need for ventilation, or a comfort problem that can be diagnosed and fixed by a combination of sealing duct leaks and balancing airflow in ducts.
Keep the Air Flowing
For nearly all furnaces and air conditioners, higher airflow means better efficiency and less wasted energy, so don't do anything that will reduce the flow. Unless you have a problem with a room that receives too much heating or cooling, it's best not to shut off supply-air registers. If you do have a room that's too warm or too cold, your problem may be a duct leak, or it may be simply poor duct design that's restricting airflow.
Once the system has been sealed, it's best to have a professional diagnose and balance airflows in the system. Generally, don't close registers in rooms that are rarely used. Although it might seem to save a bit, closing registers actually reduces overall system efficiency and may increase duct leakage significantly. Avoid the "filters" for supply registers; they are just gimmicks.
This article was adapted from Cut Your Energy Bills Now by Bruce Harley (The Taunton Press, 2008; 800-477-8727; www.taunton.com/CutYourBills). Harley is technical director of Conservation Services Group and works on energy-efficiency programs around the United States.





